[Peter Hoskin]

I received this assistance from John Tullet.
John Tullett here, Technical and Spares coordinator for the BOC and partner with Graeme in the Classic Bristol Car Parts Company. Also, proud member of BOCA.

There are a couple of variations removing the panels as they get modified over the years. There may be some additional screws around the edges of the main panel inserted when the clips fail.The inner door 'pull' handle has an allen key headed (cap head) bolt through the centre of its back plate. The handle mechanism has a back surround that should be pressed at its vertical sides to reveal that it is two pieces that will separate and slide out. The surround should then be able to be manipulated past the handle. Sometimes the speaker screws go through into the door panel, remove those and then the lower panel should unclip around its edges, if a trim panel removal tool is not available a 3/4 inch wood chisel or similar might help. Take care not to scratch the paint behind the panel, which may then cause rust. The upper pad lower fixings will then be revealed, although in practise this doesn't have to come off to carry out most door repairs.

As is fairly normal my series 2 is slightly different. My door handle mechanism back plate is in one piece secured by a cheese headed small bolt. The locking knob slides off, the handle chrome surround eases off and the back plate is manipulated around the handle.
There is no need to touch the window switches. once the panel is moved out the switch supplies can be unplugged at the connector near the hinge having marked then first, the speaker leads unplugged, the red warn. light supply disconnected and the panel taken away.
Should you wish to remove the switches remove the ash trainer centre which reveals 2 wood screws, remove and lift the front of the whole plate and slide forward. The switches can be pushed out from below the plate.