It's 20 years since I did some work on my 411 windows, but I recall that both passenger and driver side switches had to be connected, not sure if they were interchangeable. I do recall removing mine from the armrest and reconnecting them with the door trims removed.
I can't remember whether one of my windows didn't operate or whether it was painfully slow, but I know I rewired them with good quailty heavy duty wire and replaced all the bullet connectors. This made a significant difference.
Peter, have you had a voltmeter on the motor terminals while you operate the switch? I'm just wondering if the issue is insufficient current.
Also, re the circuit breakers - you said they were not open circuit, but was this with power on them and the switch operating? If they are current sensing circuit breakers (which is likely) and the motor is trying to draw too much current, the circuit could be broken momentarily whenever you try to operate the passenger window. You could perhaps try bypassing the circuit breaker with a peice of wire with an inline fuse of a suitable value (20-30A?)
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