[UK6]

Kevin,
Re pick up points for your rad - if the mounting points are critical,
I suggest that you send a light ply (or steel) drill template to your
radiator maker with the correct bolt centres/mounting detail. If you are
considering a redesign, a lot of modern cars have a rubberised "stirrup"
supporting the bottom tank - vibration wise and in terms of removal, this is
a good way to go. Side plates obviously have brackets for an fan elec fan
shroud.

If cooling is a problem with your mark, it goes without saying that an
increase in radiator aperture and or core thickness should be considered if
space allows. I assume that you already have a sealed water recovery tank -
this factor is important as your rad manufacturer will insert a taller
filler neck to allow space for the very useful recovery valve.
Don't forget to factor in space requirements for your new electric fan.
As an aside, modern fan motors and rotor housings are more than likely
thinner than those of olde!

In addition to a healthy electric fan, my father's oversize alu replacement
rad for his 405 also embodied better inlet and outlet pipe location (cross
flow) to which a modern and a more readily available thermostat housing and
radiator hoses were fitted - "Supercheap Auto's" or "REPCO" are your best
bets here. Kevin, you may want to select a fan switch which kicks in at a
lower temp - useful for our hot modern Aussie city driving (crawling!)

In closing, I am definitely not an expert, but I have gone through all of
the above considerations recently when I made top and bottom tanks (in
brass) for my SS100 and Frazer Nash Replicas. As previously mentioned, as of
earlier in the year, a standard core (inc labour for soldering) was on par
with a complete replacement alu rad!


Regards,

Brett