Welcome Richard and congrats on your new purchase. Which model of 411?
"veneer on door trims have totally had it - car has been dry stored for 11 years but they are very poor with areas totally missing. I will need to source new veneers. Does anyone know what type of wood it is. The carcase looks to be honduran mahogany with a walnut (very yellow) side veneer. It that correct? Does anyone just go back to the underlying walnut? "
The first delightful thing about a Bristol is the bespoke aspect, so if you prefer another veneer or even antique Japanese gold foil, that is OK, as long as it is done in good taste (or not, if one has seen the only documented LHD 404 painted by the factory in 1950's-turquoise which was all the rage in Long Island. New York where it was first sold by Bristol's US dealer of the time). We hear stories of cars painted by the factory to match club, military or old-school ties, and if it is a 412, forum members recommend trimming with burnt orange shag carpet and gold lamé Elvis leather seats... but I digress.
It's unclear from your question if the problem is the veneer or the varnish. If it is just varnish, sand down to the underlying walnut veneer and re-varnish. If not then here is what I did:
Sand down the base until the veneer and glue is completely gone. Select a veneer of your choice. I believe I used Carpathian Elm burr, but I did all timber to match (all the dashboard pieces as well). If uncertain take a sample of the dashboard to the veneer store to get their professional opinion for a good match.
Making clamping blocks: Cut matching plywood with a smooth finish to serve as clamping blocks. Using contact cement, glue a 1/4" to 1/2" thick very firm foam pad (of the sort used by backpackers to sleep on) on the affixing plywood so the pressure will conform to the slight curve of the door trim. Glue, hold in place with masking tape or very fine gold pins permanently nailed in at each corner, clamp and pray you've got it aligned right. I used West System 2 part epoxy to glue. Remove clamps and sand smooth. Sanding the edges is an art to assure the line looks as good and straight as when the factory did it.
Consider taking it to a luthier for varnishing unless you are really good. I did my own work using boat-building techniques. I applied a two-part varnish base, and then used West System
special 207 clear hardener that is the equivalent of about 20 coats of varnish. After it cured and was sanded smooth, I finished with two coats of tropic UV protection spar varnish which should keep the veneer on longer than the first time. Incidentally, unless the dash is in perfect shape, there is very little extra effort to do all at once, since the quantities that come in a tin are more than enough to do all the timber in the car. However, I do not recommend DIY West System gluing and varnishing unless you are experienced or do a few test runs on some scrap timber to be assured you will get it right. Epoxy can only be removed by sanding, once it has set.
"Anyone got a source for suspension bushes? I can see we will have to change every bit of rubber on the car in due course...as well as a complete rear end rebuild which will be fun no doubt."
Until recently the answer would be simple... Bristol Cars. Now you will need to call and determine if Brian Marelli is still working and has parts on the shelf, since the company is in Administration. I presume they only laid off the factory folk, but news is hard to come by. If he is still selling parts at the Bristol Service Centre, then buy every bit of rubber you can get.
When I considered using aftermarket or manufactured parts, I was advised by club members that Bristol spent a great deal of time getting the suspension right, and their bushes make the car feel like new. I also understood from the service department that removing the front bushes is a messy job. They told me they use an oxy-fuel gas cutter which produces noxious smells and smoke which sounds highly politically incorrect and would probably get you jailed if you did it in Germany.
At present, the bits I bought about six years ago are still in a bag in the boot, so I cannot tell you how they went in.
Please consider setting up a photo documentary page, such as Google's free Picasa service, so we can follow your progress.
Enjoy.
Claude