![]() |
New 403 owner
9 Attachment(s)
Hello All,
I thought i would introduce myself, as a new Bristol owner. I very recently bought a Bristol 403 (without engine and gearbox). I have to be honest and admit that i bought the car on a whim, knowing nothing about the model, and very little about Bristol cars. Now that i've done the deed, i find myself out of my depth and experience. I'm hoping to restore the car myself, with some help from a mechanic who has restored VW bugs. However, i have zero technical skills, but hope to learn as i go along the required skills. Everyone tells me that i'm mad to even consider this, as early Bristol's require major skills, the aluminium bodywork is difficult to work with and weld and would be too difficult a project in general for a complete novice. Do the board members think that i'm being not very realistic considering the amount of work the car needs ? |
New 403 owner
You don't say how much work the car needs. If it is very nice and missing
the engine and gearbox, it may boil down to spending a fair amount to buy a Bristol engine or converting to another engine. Check the prices of a decent 403 and then do the math to see how much it would cost to make yours comparable. That will not require mechanical skills and will yield interesting information. Knowledge is power!! Cheers Dorien |
Hello Dorien,
Thanks for your reply. The condition looks pretty poor to my untrained eye, as per the photos i enclosed. To make mine decent, the maths does'nt seem to add up. The big question from a cost standpoint seems to be the engine and gearbox. Are there alternatives to using a Bristol engine and gearbox ? Is there something from a recent BMW that would be readily available that i could use ? I say this based upon what i've read about the 403 being based upon a BMW design. Any thoughts / pointers ? thanks, Hal |
New 403 owner
Hal -
I can't recall whether it was this forum or the BOC one that had some discussion of other engines suggested/fitted to a Bristol. I do recall one owner was well into a project to put in a Volvo engine, a 4 cyl I think. A Bristol sold recently in the US had a Ford Falcon engine installed. Unless you are very lucky, obtaining a 6 cyl Bristol engine and transmission is likely more expensive than your original purchase! Bob PS My car was in MUCH worse condition when I found it, so don't give up. |
New 403 owner
Hi Hal,
I have not seen any pictures of your car. A modern BMW has absolutely no connection with the original BMW based 6 cyl engine. Others on this chat page may have done a conversion and can advise you more accurately. It may also boil down to what is available in your area at a cost that you are "happy" with. Remember that in an engine / gearbox conversion, many of the original intruments such as speedo and tach will not work and will have to be adjusted. A body shop can give you a general cost on their work based on pictures. If they are shy and moan that they need to "see" the car, ask them the cost of painting the car you are driving and tell them you are wanting a color change. Door jams and other detailing add $$. It will at least put you in the general price area and if your Bristol is rougher than the car you are driving...well the price just got higher!! Your VW man should be able to, via connections in the trade, give you an approximate engine installation charge / cost. Presumably you will need brakes + exhaust possibly interior work. Fiddly things like wiper motor and lights. They all add up in the red math section of your ledger lol. And of course the price you paid for the car, and do you REALLY want a Bristol 403 in the first place? Depending on what part of the world you are, in will make a BIG difference to the cost. In Europe you will pay double what you may pay in North America. There was a 401 or 403 for sale last year in the USA with a Ford 6cyl engine. They virtually give these away, so a relatively inexpensive transplant. It was Hyman motors that had the car. He usually has something for sale on EBay in the collector car section, so you could try and contact him and see if the car sold and for how much. It will help you with your math. Back on Wednesday....looking forwards to exciting news. Good luck Dorien |
Bob,
Thanks for your information. Its beginning to dawn on me that there was a good reason why the car i bought did not come with an engine and gearbox, and the cost of buying these items is expensive. Thats why i'm considering using an alternative setup that would be more readily available and a lot cheaper. I'll try and not give up, but everyone keeps on telling me that its a hard road ahead (sigh). |
Hi Dorien,
Ouch its sounding more and more expensive. It was an impulse purchase, but that impulse was based upon it being such a lovely shaped car. I want to restore it myself, and farm as little of the work out as possible. Yes its a tall order, and perhaps i'm being stupid, as all my family and friends keep on telling me, but the car has character and if i can persevere, it would be an interesting project. I want to keep the cost down to a sensible level, which is why a non Bristol replacement engine and gearbox sound appealing. If anyone has any ideas of what combo's i could use, that would be most helpful. Hal |
It really is a massive money pit of a job. Join the B.O.C if you haven't already and talk to some owners. I don't want to rain on your parade but it aint no Beetle.
Best of luck Greg |
From the pics that car looks in quite good order, but you need to take a close look underneath so you know what you're taking on, as long as you have somewhere to work on it comfortably, and have the time, then it needn't be terribly expensive, depends on what you want from the car. If you want to make it look factory fresh, you'll sink many tens of thousands, and be left with a car you daren't use, just another old car that hides under a dustsheet. In your pics I see a car that oozes character, you could even call it shabby chic or patina, it's unique, and it looks 'right'. I'd 'roll' it as is.
Have a good old prod, under that shapely panelwork is a steel support structure, look closely behind bottom rear of front wheelarches, under the alluminium splash panels are outriggers to support the bulkhead via square uprights, going rearward more outriggers to meet door pillars, take a good look at the door pillars also, especially the lower part, then there's strangely engineered sills, these are easy enough to make, then have a good look inside the rear arches, look under car below rear door pillar, shorter outrigger here, and the underside of the chassis in this area is where I've found them to go first. Lots of alluminium covers hide these areas, heavy corrosion / bulging on alluminium often means very rusty steel behind. Look inside the car, behind trim, at the steel tubing that makes up the roll cage like frame, this needs to be in good order. I've just listed areas I've noticed needing work on a few cars. A car of 50 plus years can have problems anywhere. If you're happy you can handle what you find go for it, you will be learning / gaining skills. There probably aren't many RWD engines that won't fit, the transmission tunnel is screwed down, no big deal to modify / make, biggest problem may be clutch actuation, exhaust or inlet clearing steering column, but the pair of nice flat chassis legs for engine mounts are a bonus. Maybe best to look for an upright engine, with carbs keeps it simple, Fiat / Alfa twin cam? they are quite nice, the red Volvo four pot is a good reliable lump, (a lot of jap stuff suitable but would just feel wrong) Should be easy to source something more powerful than the Bristol engine yet cheaper than buying a head gasket for the Bristol lump. |
Hal
We are having a meeting at the Bridge Inn at Walshford near Wetherby on the 10 /11th of April. There will be a talk on Bristols on the 10th and a run on the 11th around the Dales. I think it could be good for you to see the cars and meet a few blokes that have restored them. Let me know if you want more info Greg |
Des,
I agree that it does have a quite nice patina. But i don't think that i'll be able to keep it as is, because of all the aluminium thats reacted and turned into a white powdery substance. I was thinking that i should strip the car, remove it from the chassis, and then have the body soda blasted, and the chassis shotblasted. This should allow me to see what corrosion there is on the chassis and steel parts on the body and come up with a plan to have repaired. The alfa sounds nice. What about BMW's to keep lets say a genetic link to the design, distant cousins let say, but cousins non the less. If i ever get to start and finish this project, i think that its a car i would like to use on a regular basis, in the sun and in the rain. Cheers Hal |
engine option
Hi Hal,
You might like to consider the 3-litre Humber Super Snipe/Imperial engine as it has several historical connections with Bristol. It was developed, maybe jointly, with Armstrong-Siddeley Motors as a development of their Sapphire 3.4 hemi-headed straight six. Several racing versions of the 346 engine were built c. 1953, producing c. 190bhp with iron head & twin Zenith single-choke sidedraughts or c. 230bhp with alloy head & triple Webers. Two engines went to Allard for Tommy Sopwith's "Sphinx Allard" and two were allocated to Frazer-Nash for 550F Le Mans Prototype. AC were also approached, but declined. These engines were developed for the AS Hunter sports car project that might have been an XK-beater, but was shelved. When Hawker-Siddeley & Bristol Aero bit merged to become Bristol-Siddeley at about same time that car division were looking to cease production of BMW derived engine in favour of more powerful off-the-shelf lump, they found themselves with an alternative engine in-house. It is believed that Bristol took 4 Star Sapphire 4-litre engines + auto boxes for fitment in prototype 407s, of which one is known to survive. One engine was also fitted in "Project 240 mule", but proved far too heavy & messed up the handling. I'm pretty sure this car was the "Bullet" on which the Blenheim Speedster was based, as it is known to have been used to test various engines, as well as being light enough to have handling affected by big lump (& Star engine was extra heavy) Its descendant Humber engine was much lighter, with shorter, lower block & thinner castings, but just as tuneable. There's a racing Sapphire 346 in Northern Ireland & no apparent problems with unleaded without hardened valve-seat inserts in iron head. There are rusting Humber hulks all over the place, in danger of being weighed in for scrap........................... Good luck, Rob |
403: Out of Left Field
Hal. Bristol owners have tried all sorts of transplants, and from my viewpoint, one of these days a Bristol owners contingent should approach Tony Silverton at Bristol Cars and ask that the factory come up with an "approved" solution. Unlikely that it would be remanufacture of the old Bristol 6 and transmission, because the cost would be over the top even if they had it made in China.
More likely something along the lines of what they did with Chrysler, where they are phenomenally lucky to have chosen a power plant that was in production in 1960, and remains, in almost the same form today in 2010. However, it probably needs to be a lighter engine, and I envision Bristol developing a retrofit kit with the ideal making it a bolt-in solution using a common engine with similar performance characteristics to the original. Probably Japanese if they want practical, but could be German if they want tradition. Having said that, there may be another direction for you to go. Electric. Check out the electric car conversion business, and you find it is not all microcars. Ford and Chevy made pickup trucks that ran about 100 miles on a charge. The motor part is easy and small - it will fit into the drive bay, and typically uses a manual transmission. The battery part is the weight and cost, but a lot of this depends on range. Once installed, maintenance is far less. There are companies that will do it all for you, if you have the checkbook. See Electric Blue Motors Conversion Services for an example, quoting about $13,000 for a car. Do it yourself seems to be around $5,000 for parts. A few years ago, this would have been considered an off the wall idea, but times are changing thanks to folks like Tesla. The fact is that most classics are not driven over 100 miles at a time, and if you do take the long outing, a gasoline powered battery charger can extend range. The Bristol can store batteries in the two side wings as well as behind the rear seat where the gas tank goes without taking space from the passenger compartment or boot/trunk. With the side wings you could probably design a quick remove kit, so you could keep a batch of fresh batteries in the garage and swap them out in seconds. And, if you are looking for cheap batteries, a friend of mine put a wind generator in his home on a micro-island in Rhode Island, and he bought a room full of used batteries from a nuclear power plant. Apparently they are required to replace them on a schedule, even though they have plenty of life left in them. Just another idea to throw into the mix. Cheers Claude |
quote
Having said that, there may be another direction for you to go. Electric. Check out the electric car conversion business, and you find it is not all microcars. Ford and Chevy made pickup trucks that ran about 100 miles on a charge. The motor part is easy and small - it will fit into the drive bay, and typically uses a manual transmission. The battery part is the weight and cost, but a lot of this depends on range. Once installed, maintenance is far less. ---------------------------------------------------------------- They are not all locked up !! |
New 403 owner
Hal,
If you have got plenty of money, there is another alternative. Recently there are new heads being made for the Bristol 2-litre block. Stewart Banks designed them and has apparently already sold four. They are being sold by Jaye Engineering and they are about GBP 7100 + vat including valves and springs. They are designed to be used with hot camshafts etc. to cope with 160 bhp, but nothing to stop you selecting a cooler camshaft. Stewart Banks is +44 1604 830879 and Peter Jaye is +44 1908 551467. IN racing ( Ian Nuttal Racing ) is producing a new block of 2.5 litres. This will mate with Stewart Banks' new head or a standard Bristol head. Will be about GBP 8000 + vat. Speak to Peter Jaye. These details are accurate as far as I know. I wish I had the money to buy these as a present fo my 403 ! Good luck. Dave Dale. |
Quote:
http://www.bristolcars.info/forums/6...istol-6-a.html http://www.bristolcars.info/forums/6...ice-parts.html Quote:
Quote:
Hal, just in case you are wondering why some people might say they haven't seen the photos you uploaded with your first post, it's because they are communicating with the forum by email. I wish you luck with the car, but I really think it would be far cheaper in the long run to buy one that has already been done, or buy one that at the very least has it's original power train. |
HAL - Put your email question on BEEF so you get more ideas / answers -Greg
Quote: Originally Posted by Hal Greg, I really really like the 402 idea, especially since its a very glamerous looking design. But is it possible and how and who could do the cabriolet conversion. Hal Yep , it's possible and has been done once or twice. Lots of coach trimmers could do it. It is relatively simple due to the strong chassis. Go and look at a 402 to see where to chop etc Best if you look on the chassis list on the BOC and contact someone that has done it for advise. Even with an imposter engine an imposter 402 would sell for good money. I remember when I saw a 405 in about the same condition as yours. There was a spares or repair SAAB 900 convertible for sale with a good electric hood for £300 near my house -- that set my mind wondering !. Maybe someone on the BEEF site has done it. Greg |
Quote:
However, wherever Hal asks his questions I can't really see that he will get different answers. The fact that his restoration doesn't stack up economically is inescapable. Looking at the photos, the car clearly needs a fair bit of work. It would be astonishing if it could be just reassembled, 3rd party engine and gearbox installed and body resprayed. At the end of the day there's only ever going to be a limited market for a Bristol with non original power train and the value would be considerably less than than an original car. I know it's not all about value, but I also know from experience it's not a good feeling knowing that you have pumped a huge amount of money into a car that can never be recouped, even when you have no intention of selling it in the foreseeable future. To know that before you even start, but still go ahead with it is madness (IMHO). It's not like it's the last 403 in the world :) |
OOps - sorry about the BEEF thing Kevin
I agree about the economics but I was just sugesting that if it was to go ahead a convertible or roadsters would probably be easier to sell as there is less of them and the real ones fetch high prices. The reason I didn't tackle the 405 was because of suicidal economics. It would have made a bonnie car though! Greg |
Quote:
It's just making it even less original. Anyone who's done their homework would know it isn't a rinky-dink original 402, plus it will have the wrong engine and gearbox as well (with modifications to suit). But not only that, once the roof has been chopped off you wouldn't even be able to convert it back to proper 403. |
People have converted original 403's with original engines and I would bet that done well that they fetch more money.
Only a guess though. Even Beetles and Morris Minors values increase massively once chopped and there is loads of them !! Greg |
Quote:
That sounds like an interesting idea. From a purist's point of view, would this swap be considered "accurate" and in keeping, and also how would it effect the value ? Is the Humber lump a reliable unit ? Thanks Hal |
New 403 owner
Hi Kevin -
Thanks for the references. One primary consideration before doing any work on any old car should be "motivation". Should we take on a project because we really like the car? To make a profit? Some combination? When a car can't be driven and a prospective owner has no experience with the marque, it's very hard to know if it will be "liked" when it's done. My Frazer Nash was totally inoperative from the day I first saw it in 1975 until I drove it in 2005 (almost exactly 5 years ago this week), so I never knew if I would like driving it until then. I do! The entire expense of storing the car during that time, having work done at various shops, shipping the car to NZ, etc. was somewhat a concern, but my only rationale during that period was to break even or not be too far "underwater". Over that period, I was encouraged by the Bristol Owners Club, the Frazer Nash Club and various new books that my car had some support and recognition in the universe of cars - much different than in 1975, when my friends thought I overpaid for a strange car and was otherwise a dreamer - it would never be finished. I think the same is true of any "odd" car; but a prospective owner should still weigh their real affection and goals for the car against the reality of much work and/or costs. Other cars I've owned, improved, and sold were mostly driveable when bought and during all the work. If ever took on a car like this Bristol, I'd probably try to get an engine in it as quickly as possible to learn about the potential enjoyment of driving it. It's all a little crazy, isn't it? Bob Bob, it was on here (Clyde aka 460Special). He talks about his car (Bristol 406) in these threads. http://www.bristolcars.info/forums/6...istol-6-a.html http://www.bristolcars.info/forums/6...ice-parts.html ---Quote--- PS My car was in MUCH worse condition when I found it, so don't give up. ---End Quote--- Yes, but your fully restored Frazer Nash is probably worth ten times what a 403 would be worth! |
Quote:
Hi Claude, Yes I guess it would help if there was a sanctioned transplant, at a sensible cost. However, if Bristol gave up making their own engines, and bought in engines from Chrysler, does that mean that the engine and gearbox are not fundamental to the spirit or soul of a Bristol. If so, are alternatives a real problem then ? I know of a chap in the USA, in the deep south, who converted his pickup to electric. The problem he found was that using lead acid batteries added too much weight, and the lighter batteries were much to expensive. Using electric would simplify in many respects, and turn it into a real retro modern type of motor. Its worth keeping in mind, and thanks for the input and ideas. Cheers Hal |
Let's face it folks -- there are dozens of similar 401, 403 & 405s that are the wrong side of borderline restoration cases. As Clyde said, unless we get Bristol to sanction a particular replacement drive-train, they'll end up being broken & chassis weighed in for scrap, losing the Bristol identity for ever.
Siddeley/Humber engine design at least known to have been used by both FN & Bristol in prototypes. Even with original engines, many of these basket-cases will be uneconomical to restore as large saloons with expensive to replace interiors, brightwork etc. .........but as spartan "Bristol Specials" (or Bristol-Siddeley), they might have more hope of survival & be much cheaper to build on bare rolling chassis. There are many interesting, fun & potentially more valuable end-results that could be looked at long-term. I don't see any reason why the 9' 6" chassis can't be cut'n'shut to 8' or 8' 6" for a variety of body styles. One would need to obtain 404 torsion bars & mounts, but converting to coilovers cheaper:- 405 to 404 is a prime example. You get bigger rear window & maybe higher roofline, but shapes essentially there. 405 to Spartan Speedster as per 'Bullet' another possibility. Any of you graphics boys able to cut-n-shut some pics? 8' wheelbase also suits FN body styles, AC Ace, as well as Arnolt. Le Mans rep rep rep rep anyone?...........chassis maybe a bit wide, though. Hawk do an Ace body that might fit, but a bit blase. If there are enough chassis kicking around, might they be persuaded to take moulds from an Arnolt? (gotta find one first!) At this level of restoration economics, ultimate survival must surely take precedence over originality............... Comments? Rob |
Soul
Quote:
The soul of a Bristol is not purest. It is an engineers car (until the recent Fighter which is sex on wheels) and a historian's car in the same vein as the Morgan, only more elegant. So when Chrysler offered their automatic transmission, and popped a motor on it to demonstrate its use, Bristol shifted to what they saw as an excellent motor. Once in, they have stayed with it because changing is complicated, and their engine has remained stable even as the company changed ownership and almost went out of business a few times. Bristol itself does not venerate its cars. It is happy to take a 410 in and offer to refit it with the latest engine, brakes, electric devices and modern sunroof. But because it does this as the factory, it creates an official sanction that goes down in history as proper. It makes it part of the"soul" of the car. Sometimes it takes a newcomer, and Hal, you may be the man. Not sure where you live, but I would suggest you take a flight or drive over to the showroom and have a serious chat with Toby. I would estimate there are at least a hundred engineless 400-6 cars out there that could reasonably be restored if an engine/transmission combo could affordably be secured from a donor car. The business case for Bristol is the Morgan business case. As Tony Crook said, Morgan is in the parts business. They build their cars to create market demand for parts. Put a hundred Bristols back on the road with engines and the demand for restoration parts will skyrocket. I think it is worthwhile asking Toby to look at electric. Doing a review of the internet shows companies are now coming out with reasonable sized cars targeting 100 to 250 miles driving range. Batteries will improve. We may also see fuel cell charging systems that use gasoline better (because they run at a single rpm). From a restoration perspective, electric is easy because it fits in the engine bay and allows weight to be strategically distributed for best handling. If he can do the conversion at the current market price, they would charge about 10,000 UKP... and as all would be the same, that price could come down after the first few. Not unprecedented. When gas became a problem, Bristol sold LPG cars. And, on my last visit to the repair shop, they did have an electric micro car parked in a corner. But if not electric, ask Toby to pick a common engine that was put in cars whose bodies broke while the engine soldiered on. It is too bad, of course that the Chrysler small-block 8 does not easily fit, but I wonder what would be involved in a factory refit kit. It may require a tin kit for the engine bay, and probably would require a stronger differential. After all they did it with the Bullet, which looks like it was a Bristol-6 chassis they modified as an engine test bed. What do you say, Hal? Pop on over and have a chat. Claude |
Thanks guys for your replies.
Kevin: The problem is that i've already bought a car. If i'd have engaged my brain and did what sensible people do, which is research before a purchase, then yes, buying a good one would have been the way to go. But thats not necessarily a problem, as the restoration could be an interesting project and an excuse to learn some new skills, if i can persevere. But as you say knowing that you could lose large amounts on the restoration before the work has even started, is difficult to stomach. Greg: I really like the idea of turning the 403 into a 402, and if this is half way possible, then this may well be the best reason, financially and from an aesthetic point of view. If there's anyone you know that has had this done, or any coachbuilder that could do the conversion, i would love to hear. |
2 Attachment(s)
Hal,
Andrew Stevens from London has turned his 403 ( or was it a 401 ) into a convertible - and it looks superb. I'll attempt to attach two photos but if I fail and you would like to see them let me know via email and I'll make a web album so that everyone can see it. Dave Dale. bristol @davedale.co.uk Quote:
|
The pictures of that conversion look superb!
How much do you want for the 403 Hal ?:) Hope the guy I sent you on email can help. Richard James has a good name and Bristol experience as well. Greg |
Dave,
Thanks for the photos, thats an awesome looking car. However, it does look as if its had some major major work, and clearly converting over isnt a simple process. Greg, Sorry matey, its definitely not for sale, now that i've seen that conversion !. And thanks for sending me details of that chap, i'll be getting in contact with him. |
Well now you have an objective you don't need to worry about cost effectiveness, rationality etc. these concerns have no place, it should be more an emotional thing.
I'm keeping my 403 standard, but only because that's the state I found it in and it's the easiest option, having said that I've been faffing around with it for about 7 years and haven't made huge progress. I actually bought a second (engineless) one last year, don't know what I was thinking of, but I have gazed into the empty engine bay dreaming of what might fill the gap. I would think a 'period' engine a folly, I don't think there's much that wouldn't leave the car nose-heavy, and / or gutless. It probably has to be something 4 cylinder as I doubt there's many sixes other than the Bristol short enough to fit without butchery. The type 9 gearbox used in Sierra / Capri is a pretty strong box, bellhousings are available to give quite a few engine choices, even some wildcard FWD lumps. Speaking of FWD, I have an old Saab Turbo I've owned for 20 years and can't bear to part with, it crossed my mind that it has a fairly compact engine gearbox unit, I didn't get the tape measure out but I think the Bristol would have to lose a couple of feet of chassis so perhaps not, although, 170 BHP, equal length driveshafts equate to a non FWD lack of torque steer. |
Quote:
Would you know how to get in contact with Andrew Stevens, and do you know who did the conversion for him ? thanks Hal |
New member light green Bristol 403 reg. no. UPL 566
Hi all,
My name is Joseph, from Monte Estoril, Lisbon area in Portugal. For many years that I was trying to buy a decent left hand drive 403, for a decent price. LHD Bristols don't hang on trees, so after turning down some good LHD 401's, I finally purchased the RHD light green Bristol 403 from Steven de'Ath. My first step was to join BOC as a clubmember by the end of last year, and trying to find out what was important about choosing the right car. Jaap Koopmans from the Netherlands has been of great help, via email and telephone. I am still wating for the fittment of an overdrive in the UK, and hope to get the car here in a couple of weeks or so. I intend to change it's color into a much darker shade of green. Also the headlamps must be changed into continental type right dip. I am trying to find a pair of Lucas PF770 complete, in order to substitue the previous smaller ones. The PF770 just look glorious on these cars... Any clues where to find them? I just enquired Holden Vintage & Classic. De'Ath's car has lots of improvements, although non-standard, they are great: 405 engine and gearbox, for example. Recently I had the chancd to meet a 90 years old gentleman from Portugal, who owned a 403 back in the 1950's. Ill try to send a picture. Yours for longer engine roars, Joseph |
Old Bristol 403 in Portugal (March 1956)
1 Attachment(s)
Hi all,
Here is the picture of Mr. Joaquim de Vilhena, returning from the Switzerland to Lisbon in March 1956, with his Bristol 403. This car has been scrapped many years later by next owner. Picture has been taken at Parador EL CID in Burgos, northern Spain. On the roof of the car there were the skys, and next there was a Mercedes 220S Ponton with those lovely export german oval plates... I wonder about those chormed "bezel" protections on the underside of the rear mudguards. I never saw any of those on a 2 litre Bristol before. Should it be original? He says they came with the car when he bought it new, and never putted any extras on the car. He was very positive, for he told me he hated tose kind of "boy racer" improvements. Enjoy... Joseph |
New 403 owner
Having bought a few AC's with odd engines fitted & 400's without engines &
boxes over the years there always seems to be someone that has spares available especially 85 series ex 400 & 401. I think a few alternative motors suitable for a 6 cylinder chassis (subject to measurement )might be a Daimler V8 of early 60's or a Rover 3500 V8 , both should fit behind the cross member with out major modification . They are relatively short and light with excellent torque and should suit the car and not upset the handling. I've seen Holden/GM 3 litre sixes & XK Jag engines fitted to 400 & 401 chassis but major modifications to the firewall, floors & gearbox X member are necessary. Has anyone seen a small V8 fitted to a 6 cylinder Bristol Chassis ??? Geoff |
402 pattern
Hal,
Have you seen post re 402 undergoing restoration in Denmark? In its present stripped state, now would be the ideal time to examine how it's put together, mountings, hood, frame etc. Maybe Greibel might take more snaps, measurements etc., or find yerself an excuse to fly to Denmark! Rob |
Quote:
As a newbie, I found your observations illuminating, especially about Bristol cars not “venerating” their cars, and that the soul of a Bristol is that of an engineer. These comments seem to make sense to me. Especially, since as you point out that they will happily modernise one of their earlier models to full modern spec. And I accept that a retrofit done by the factory, would be perceived as proper. But if we start looking at electric, LPG etc, whether factory approved or not, surely it begs the question again of what is it that makes a Bristol. Is it the power plant? the chassis, the design or some other mechanical or design aesthetic that if we see it, we can recognise and identify as uniquely Bristol. As a new owner, in my “ignorance” I would say that its understated cars, with good British engineering values, and cars for grown ups that are practical, and that on the whole form follows function. But if “Britishness” is a core value, then how can they use the Chrysler bits without sacrificing this value ? These are more questions than statements, as the answers I believe will help clarify / pin down what is lets say acceptable and what isn’t. If it’s just engineering, then surely any and all superior engineering could be added ? I suspect that my lack of knowledge of Bristol cars and oily bits in general would preclude me from being the one that could talk to Bristol cars. I’d probably make some daft suggestion that would get me shot or make me persona non grata, lol. Hal |
Quote:
Quote:
Thats not a bad idea, and i could pick up some tips etc. I'll have to ask him to see what he says. Thanks Hal |
New 403 owner
Don't worry about the Rover engine - there are literally thousands of the
old Buick-based 3.5 litre engines available from scrapped Range Rovers and Discovery's, and they are pretty indestructable. You could even choose between carburetor or fuel injection. I find it sad that many early Bristols have become just a cheap source of 6-cyl engines for AC's, FN's and Arnolt's. Like Jaguar V-12's for kit cars. I remember helping a pattern maker chissel away at the wooden mould for the cylinder head of that engine, in Nuneaton, I guess in 1970? The blueprint stretched across the entire wall in his workshop! I came across a 406 in London for less than GBP 2000 about 2 years ago, with I believe an Opel Manta engine, grubby leather and no doubt lots of rust. That's not a viable project in my opinion (just worked out what IMO means). With best regards, Andrew. |
Quote:
Quote:
|
All times are GMT. The time now is 10:53 PM. |
This is the live site