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6 cyl Bristol cars Type 400 to 406 - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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![]() Just in case anyone else has been contemplating washing their old Vokes filters, I've run quite low on them, came across a company called Flexolite offering an adaptor to take readily available cannister types, about £50 inc p+p, but looks nicely made, instructions included, delivered very promptly and included a filter, a decent Mann one at that, good value I think.
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![]() WARNING, make certain that the replacement conversion unit is compatible
with the Bristol system, (from the centre out) as most cartridge types work with the oil flow in the opposite direction and if fitted could result with paper parts blocking the oil ways. My regards, Bellerophon |
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![]() Good point Beller, I remember suspecting the Bristol filter works inside out, in that any crud stays within the filter rather than settle at the bottom of the bowl. Now I'm home I've taken a better look at the item, and it's not so much an adaptor as a replacement for the filter housing, which will have the filter will screw on horizontally. Only snag here is not being able to completely fill a replacement filter with oil before fitting, not really a problem, although I'd best ensure filters have a non drainback valve.
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![]() Daniel ,
I have a limited quantity of replacement Bristol 6 cylinder Vokes oil filter elements suitable for types 401 - 406 plus AC , Frazer Nash etc (but they are not suitable for the original 400 Tecalamit type ) If you are interested contact me off Forum at geoff.dowdle@gmail.com Geoff |
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![]() Daniel, with regard to your oil filter adaptor, I take it that it enables
you to use a current screw on canister filter. On the Bristol engine the oil flows through the filter in the opposite direction to the canister types, so check that your adaptor does reverse this or you will risk the possibility of parts of the filter blocking your oil ways. Also it is good that you have found some one to re-spray your car, but you have most likely found out that the body frame is welded to the chassis and difficult to remove. However, if any of the original paint or filler remain on the car it should be removed and new applied as the old looses its f lex ability with age and will craze with the expansion of the aluminium. I wish you luck with the re-spray. My regards, Bellerophon |
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![]() Thank you very much for the advice Bellerophon.
The respray is being carried out by G & B Autospray in Royston, Herts and is well under way now. It is indeed a full bare metal respray and their process seems surprisingly similar to the methods described in the 401 launch press release available at the JEL450 web site. I have been able to visit several times during the preparation and so far, I would heartily recommend them. The big question now is what colour to paint it. For the last 20 years I have known it as a cream coloured car, but it turns out that it should be Cambridge Grey (green really). Daniel |
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![]() I still regret not painting my TR4 in the factory baby blue racing colour
when I had the chance, instead sticking to the bright red in which it left the factory. My advice would be not to paint your car in its original colour if you don't like it! |