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6 cyl Bristol cars Type 400 to 406 - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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![]() Inracing in Nottingham does a repair kit for the Bristol fuel pump (along with a wonderful - or frightening, depending on your finances - range of other engine parts) at https://www.inracing.co.uk/RACING_CA..._Engine_Parts/.
Mine came with a variety of gaskets and sealing rings which included ones to fit my 100 series engine OK. The kit is fairly cheap, but the postage is expensive. Hugh |
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![]() On the statement that a plumber advised that soldering brass to copper is problematic: Brass is merely copper alloyed with zinc. They solder together quite well. Plumbers use soft solder only, which will still work. Hard soldering is brazing with brass rod or even silver, and is the best as it is at a higher temp and will not decay. The copper must be very clean, as it oxidizes quite fast.
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![]() You are right James. VAT & postage pretty well doubled the cost.
I used plumbers solder on the ferrule and when I soldered some brake pipe into the brass pipe this evening. Not bothered about the reduced capacity as it will suck up on the reserve pipe too. Removing the fuel pump is very simple. Disconnect the fuel pipe unions (checking that they are still intact, of course!), undo the two nuts below the pump and pull away. Perhaps I will have a working Bristol again tomorrow. Would RTV silicon or Hylomar be better for sealing the reserve unit onto the fuel tank? |