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6 cyl Bristol cars Type 400 to 406 - restoration, repair, maintenance etc

Just not getting anywhere.

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Old 15-09-11, 07:14 PM
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Tell him to try eBay with a reserve
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Old 15-09-11, 09:24 PM
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Or, you could put him in touch with someone that has some knowledge of cars, better still Bristol Cars. How about Bristol Cars LTD , Spencer L Jones , A.Blow or ACCS.

A pile of photo's sent to any of the above should be able to get him a ball park figure of value.

It is certainly rare but not likely to be very valuable if it's in a poorly state.
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Old 16-09-11, 04:22 PM
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Default The Abandoned Bristol

Those are excellent suggestions, but at this point, it would be hard to encourage him to approach the idea of disposing of the car. I do believe he has done some research, as he has a fair idea of the value of the car. But, like so many people these days, they take their cue from what they see going across the block at auctions for fabulous prices on cars that have had the luxury of having tons of money spent on them. I see it all the time on American 'muscle' cars, which were cheap items sold to millions of people back in the day. An old car, regardless of make, is an old car. To take the sow's ear and make it into a silk purse can and is done all the time in this hobby. It does not have to make any sense.
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Old 16-09-11, 05:52 PM
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yes , agreed !
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Old 03-07-12, 02:00 AM
Des Des is offline
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10 months on and things are looking good, the underside anyway. Workshop is to go imminently and I'm now well into borrowed time.
I've spent the last 3 weeks telling my clients that I'm fully booked when I've really been spannering, this deceit seems likely to continue. I did think 2 weeks would suffice to get to the MOT-able stage but spent a whole week derusting and treating the floor and chassis alone. A horrid job. I carried this out with the car on its side, after many hours contemplation I've decided these cars are closer in design to that of a modern monocoque than a traditional chassis, the members which span front to rear are large and of a thin gauge, far more similar to sill members than any archaic conventional frame, and with the body permanently attached, well kind of indirectly sort of. Most car design jumped straight from chassis to mono many years ago, the Bristol looks a missing link from that evolutionary leap.

My dilemma now is if I should MOT, exempt from November but meantime it needs to be moved around, and will inhabit garage in a location impossible to reach by tow truck or trailer so has to travel under its own steam, legally would be a bonus now that our movements seem closely monitored. I have no fear of the MOT, but, while I've always known this car has been off the road since before I was born, have just realised that it was laid up before it would have been due for its first MOT, which would have been the 10 year test of the earliest MOTs.
The thing has never seen the inside of a testing bay, never been bounced across gritty brake rollers nor had to twirl front wheels on filthy greasy swivel plates, and if I can hang on for 4 Months it will never have to, as a bonus I wouldn't have to stress over where to place reflectors or drill holes for washer jets, ( I actually shall, but will be my choice).
It's a shame I didn't get around to the bodywork, and while I'm not too fussed that it looks a state I would have enjoyed painting it.
Here are some pics of the progress, much of the rust from the first pic is now in my lungs.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_2760.jpg (110.2 KB, 100 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2872.jpg (121.3 KB, 90 views)
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Old 03-07-12, 05:18 PM
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Default Restoration, rehabilitation, tons of work

I can honestly say that I feel your pain. Having been down the restoration road many times, it is a sure-fire way to disappoint, and the glory we hope to have upon completion is not there. if we would just listen to people in the business of restoring old cars, we would be way ahead, finanacially and mentally. My last great project involved two Chryslers out of the 50's. My friend in the business told me to sit down and listen to what he had to say. First; get rid of both of them and find a decent car with little rust, that runs, and perhaps still has a shine to the old paint. It is less money, and you can enjoy your prize from the outset. Of course, I did not listen. Now sitting in my shop is still another 50's car, a large one that needs it all. I did take his advice and sold the other two, but this one now stares at me daily, and I have begun to work on it. I have little hope of ever finishing it to a standard that would be barely acceptable. Welcome to the old car hobby.
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Old 14-07-12, 12:40 AM
Des Des is offline
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I'm feeling more frustration than pain, I'm working on the car almost every day but time just flies past. It all looks straightforward, I've been gathering parts for many years so there's nothing I have to drop everything to go in search of, yet progress is still slow. Engine is now running well, but took a while to get there. I've run it fairly regularly to move in and out of workshop, and it has always been spluttering, farting and popping. Modern petrol had been dissolving all the muck from the fuel system and clogging the carbs so I cleaned everything up, found TDC and made timing marks, new points condenser rotor cap leads, clean slate time. Fired her up and it was barely any better, running on 4 1/2 cyls at best, pulled the coil lead slightly out from the cap, make the coil work harder and up the spark, this helped, so I threw in a set of new plugs although the originals were barely used I don't trust the little buggers, now running on 6 but way too rich at idle, spitting viciously at me, I played around with float levels for only a very slight improvement, bloody thing had me stumped, whipped the carbs apart and found all 3 idle jets have been overtightened and distorted the seatings, the jets have hex as well as slotted heads inviting a good tightening with a spanner rather than nipping with a screwdriver, this abuse most likely occured 50-ish years ago. Easy enough to fix though, popping a small O ring on each jet made a perfect seal, actually an improvement on original.
Now it goes and stops, just lights, wipers and horn and it's back on the road.
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