Top up the master cylinder reservoir with new fluid.
With a suitable lift or jack, raise the car to gain access to the rear suspension underside. Ensure that the car is sufficiently secured on jack stands or ramps, and chock the wheels before getting under it.
Slide under the car and look at the rear calipers. These are mounted inboard of the wheel hubs. Toward the top of each caliper, you will find its bleeder screw. Begin with the bleeder which is farthest from the master cylinder: typically, the right rear. Fit a rubber vacuum hose onto it and put the other end of the hose into a drain pan to hold the old fluid. It is important that the hose be fully immersed in fluid: put some fresh fluid in your pan to start. Put a spanner on the bleeder and open it about a half turn. The screws are probably rusted, so go easy and use some penetrating oil. Be prepared for a little brake fluid to seep onto your face (you want eye protection and in my opinion, it doesn't taste very good). Now have an assistant push the brake pedal smoothly all the way to the floor and hold it there. This will force old, contaminated fluid out through the hollow bleeder screw and through your hose into the drain pan. Is the fluid brown? It's supposed to be clear! Finally, tighten up the bleeder. It is important that the assistant understands not to release the pedal until you have tightened the bleeder screw. (If the pedal is released, the system will suck air into the line through the open bleeder screw. Keeping the end of the hose immersed in fluid will reduce the chance of air bleeding back into the system. Brakes don't work with air in the lines. You will simply compress the air and the pads won't move against the discs.) Now, with the bleeder screw closed, have your assistant release the pedal. Repeat this opening bleeder - pumping pedal - closing bleeder - releasing pedal routine several times until the fluid coming out of the hose is clean.
Now, move on to the left rear and repeat the process there, continue on to the front right and front left brakes in that order. Throughout the job, keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up. If it empties, air can be introduced to the system here as well.
Now your brake pedal should be firm and strong with no sponginess. Or now look for leaks :-)
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