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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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![]() Hello Forum
We have a 411 with the Dodge (Chrysler) 383 engine. We discovered knocking coming from the drivers side rocker cover. Once we removed it we found the centre rocker arm had been hitting the cover, leaving marks in the aluminum covers. The cover doesn't seem bent or misshaped other than the marks. The rocker arms all seemed in place, i couldn't push the lifters down so all seemed fine. Ran the engine without covers. no noise I replaced the gasket with 2 rubber gaskets, refit. I run the engine again, and again the knocking. The knocking continues even when hot and seems to stop at about 1200 rpm. Does this seem like a problem anyone else has had? Any help, or ideas welcomed. |
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![]() I assumed they where aluminium, they have BRISTOL cast or Machined into them. I suppose they could be polished steel.
If that is the case, I would have expected to see some marks on the rocker where it had made contact. Does anyone know if its possible to remove the lifters without removing the head? also does the rocker have a bearing at its pivot point? |
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![]() 1. Kevin is correct that the rocker covers are a cheap mild steel pressing as original with no engraving. But maybe there is an aftermarket upgrade available. Most quality cars have something alloy with logos (think AM) so not a bad extra if you have the dosh!
2. I think the 383 has hydraulic tappets. Over time the oil supply can get lazy and it can take time for the little cups to refill with oil. Once the engine gets warm and the oil less thick the noise goes. It`s not just Chrysler V8s. The Honda 2.7 V6 (Rover 827 etc) even did it. Does that fit? Keep us posted. Peter |
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The rocker covers on your car are an aftermarket item and it sounds like there isn't quite enough clearance at one point, OR there's something funny about that rocker arm! Maybe the oil hole in that rocker arm is blocked and the rocker arm and/or the shaft has worn so that it's sitting up a bit higher? (although I can't imagine it getting that bad unnoticed). Or perhaps someone has fitted non stock rocker arms? The stock rocker arms do not have a bearing at the pivot point. You can remove the rocker arms and shaft without removing the head, in fact I think you have to remove them to actually get at the head bolts. However, when removing the rocker shaft it's important that it is unloaded evenly to prevent it being bent. Also make sure you keep the rocker arms in the same order, because they will all have slightly different wear patterns. Once you have removed the rocker arms you may as well remove the push rods and make sure they're all straight Of course if you go down this disassembly path it's a slippery slope, because there are all sorts of things you may as well clean and check. In which case it's probably worth investing in a book on rebuilding big block (B/RB) mopar engines ![]() |
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![]() That noise is probably not due to the rocker arms hitting the valve cover, and could be something much more serious. A wrist pin will make that noise at some point on the RPM scale, and not at others. I would led someone who understands engines listen to the noise.
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![]() I must admit the fact that the noise goes away over 1200 rpm is hard to explain if it's the rocker arm hitting the cover.
But then if it was the wrist pin, aka gudgeon pin, why would the noise go away when the rocker cover is removed? It is however worth erring on the side of caution, because if a gudgeon pin does fail it's usually goodbye engine. |