603 - electric windows

[Peter Hoskin]

Thanks David for your two responses.
Current situation
Following failure of passenger window to raise or lower from either of the two switches and no problems on Drivers window I changed over the two switches on Drivers side and Drivers window continued to operate correctly so I assume both switches are working correctly.
I fitted a new switch to the passenger side. It failed to work but the Drivers switch now does.
This suggests a failure in the wiring unique to the passenger switch.
At present the car is with my chum investigating the front end replacing bushes etc. At 84 I am finding in increasingly difficult to get under the car and operate heavy tools, or more exactly getting up again so I do the shouting while he does the heavy lifting. It may be a day or so before I am able to continue with this puzzle but I will prepare a test lamp in readyness, currently using a voltmeter and a 2volt test lamp.

[David C]

I suggest testing as follows:

Using sealed beam headlamp with flying leads, remove and test cables on rear of switch on passenger door - both 12V supplies and both earth paths through breakers. If these are all good then that suggests all is well with driver's side switch and cables to passenger side. It will also give an indication that the breakers are working.

If all good then remove middle cables on passenger door switch (motor cables) and very briefly apply 12V in both polarities - ideally from a suitably fused supply. If no movement of the window this will suggest either an unserviceable motor or wires to it or a micro switch that is not passing current - if indeed the 411 has them. The Piper motors on the 410s so equipped have a separate micro switch for each end of travel but I suspect the 411 just kills the path to earth when the motor stalls and the current increases.

[Peter Hoskin]

Partial success. I did tests as described by Davis C and found that the drivers switch when stationary was passing my 2v test lamp currents but not the current demanded by the headlamp load. Meanwhile a new switch arrived but had only three connections. Cannibalised the inside of the new with the casing of the old and on test it restored the passenger switch to full working order but the drivers switch is problematical on the UP action, ok on DOWN. Suspect will have to strip it again and check the contacts. Happy to accept what I have until I have more time. Thank you to all who have contributed with advice and information.