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| 8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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21-01-09, 07:50 PM
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411 wheel nut size
The 412 (no reason to think that it is different from the 411) wheel nut
thread is 9/16 BSF (British Standard Fine) 16 threads per inch. This is from memory and postings some years ago. Bit frosty outside but I will recheck tomorrow. John P 
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21-01-09, 09:46 PM
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411 wheel nut size
if you are looking for a set of alloy wheel nuts as per factory i made my
own peter dowdle
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22-01-09, 12:24 AM
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It's probably worth mention that the nuts for the steel wheels are different to the nuts for the alloy Avon wheels. The nuts for the Avon wheels go through the wheel, so they are longer and come with a collar.
I bought some secondhand nuts and collars along with a secondhand Avon wheels from Bristol Cars Services. This was a few years ago and the nuts were £5 each (with collar) but they were in a sorry state. They are chromed originally and as you can imagine this doesn't wear very well, so once the chrome comes off they rust. I was offered stainless steel nuts at the time that they use on the later V8 cars, but I felt £400 for a set of wheel nuts was a bit much. At the time I looked into getting polished SS nuts made, but the demand wasn't sufficient to justify the tooling and set up costs.
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22-01-09, 08:30 AM
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411 wheel nut size
I have returned home after two weeks in the sun to kill off some of the
winter weather, however, I have not been pleased to read some of the items on the forum. First wheels do not come loose unless something fractures, they come loose because they have not been fitted correctly! In most cases it is because the wheel has not been located in its right position, that is not square and flat on its central location, the nuts are tightened but are not fully home, thus when the wheel rotates the wheel seats itself and low and behold the nuts are loose. The correct way to fit a wheel especially when the wheels have been off for some time is to wire brush the wheel, its location and the studs to make certain that they are perfectly clean. (the studs and nuts should also be washed afterwards). The studs and wheel location should then have a thin smear of grease (if this is not done to the wheel surfaces you can end up with a creaking wheel), but above all make certain the wheel is correctly located before the nuts are fully tightened home. If this is done they will NOT come loose. My regards, Bellerophon
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22-01-09, 10:22 PM
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411 wheel nut size
kevin as i mentioned i made my own wheel nuts and spacers
purchased propritory chrone mag wheel nuts from ant tyre service drilled the threads out and re tapped to correct bsf thread designed and made up on lathe correct tappered spacers had them platted they work perfectly and look correct regards peter dowdle
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23-01-09, 02:05 AM
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Quote:
Personally I took a slightly different route - I took the nuts and collars I had bought secondhand from Bristol, cleaned them up, had them nickel plated and polished. The polished nickel plate is a slightly different colour to chrome but it's much tougher, so it's less likely to crack and chip like chrome always seems to do eventually. I'm happy with the results - see (rather poor) picture attached. If the price was reasonable however, I would go for polished stainless steel. Regards, Kevin
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23-01-09, 09:07 AM
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411 wheel nut size
kevin
kevin the wheel nuts pictured are different than the ones I copied from john mays 411 mk 5 , in that the distance they pertrude into the wheel , that is from the base of the washer to the bottom of the nut on his car is .551 inch . Yours seems much shorter. I have a diagram that geoff drew from johns car. The nuts I made when tightened almost touch the axle stub. What all this means I am not sure ! peter dowdle
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