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6 cyl Bristol cars Type 400 to 406 - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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Water leak from block on 403 engine
Just started cleaning down the engine on 403-1402. To my horror I have found a hole in the block casting on the RH side at the front, just round the,corner and below the water pump. Presumably there must be a waterway only just beliw rge surface. Is this terminal or can it be repaired? Looking back further a long the RH side of the block there is also a light wetting underneath the paint. Is all this something that others have found?
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Here's a photograph of the hole and the area around it. Looks like it's been stitched in the distant past. Is this repaireable? Any recommendations who could do the repair? Would I need to remove all the components from the block?
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Bikebro,
looking closely at the photo it looks like the metal is very thin . Pls advise the thickness . In the past I have seen cover plates bolted on the side of blocks to cover cracks or holes but have had no personal experience with this type of repair . My guess is that the engine would need removal and block stripped and chemically cleaned as a start . Then taken to a competent repairer for advice . I can not recommed anyone to do the repair as I'm located in Sydney/Australia. Spencer Lane Jones might advise you after looking at the photo. Good Luck Geoff |
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re-water leak from block on 403 engine
Geoff
The metal around the hole is locally probably only about 1mm but I can't get in to measure the thickness anywhere else. However, I've now removed the blanking plate on the front of the block (underneath the water pump which is now also removed) and the metal as far as I can see has a good thickness away from the corrosion immediately round the hole. As you can see from the photo, the hole is almost at the front of the block, very close to the water pump. In fact I can see daylight via the hole when looking through from where the blanking plate has been removed. I've got a telephone call with a "block stitcher" here in the Uk lined up for tomorrow morning. He has seen the photos and wants to chat, which is encouraging. Mike |
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Mike,
a block stitcher can possibly only repairs cracks , not holes . But it will be interesting to see what he recommends . Maybe he can enlarge the hole to a point where there is metal say around 5mm thick , then tap a thread in the hole and make a screw in plug similar to the alloy plugs originally in the block. After a repair is completed I recommend you use a sealer additive in the radiator fluid . In Australia there are a number of different types/brands available from Spare parts shops . They all should stop minor leaks but not holes. Follow the instructions on the packet. Pls post the outcome of your completed fix. Geoff |
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Quote:
George |
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Update - following up a recommendation from a BOC member, I contacted Nick Hood of Surelock in Oakham Rutland. He tells me he has repaired several Bristol 2 litre blocks over the years. He has seen my photos and is confident he can repair my block for me. It's now up to me to decide whether to send the block down to Nick (it won't be cheap!) or try the diy solution of a plate bolted on. I'm leaning towards getting it done properly, having spent so much time on the chassis and body already. I'm not quite ready to get the engine out yet. So bear with me and I'll post any further developments.
Mike |
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Water Leak from lock
Please let us know how you get on. I have a similar problem and need to find a solution so I would be more than happy to hear of your progress and how successful will be the end result.
George |
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Stitching at Surelock completed and successfully pressure tested.. The water ways have also been flowed to remove loose corrosion products and ceramic sealed. It will be some time before I can run the engine for the real test, but it all looks good.
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Some photographs
Thought some of you would be interested to see some photos of the repair. As you can see, a large hole was cut out which removed all the corroded metal, some of which was part of a previous repair from way back. A new piece of cast iron was then stitched in, and then the whole water system ceramic coated internally, before finally pressure testing.
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