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6 cyl Bristol cars Type 400 to 406 - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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Rear blind 401
I’m restoring a 401 (one of the last, 1951) and taking apart the usual problems of making a new wood fillet to hold the rear window and allow the roof lining to be fixed on it, I’m trying to reinstall the rear blind. The Workshop manual describe the operating manner of the all system (with wire cables of correct diameter (26 S.W.G.) passing through the two rear eyelets in the head lining, passing through wire conduits (still in place - picture) and converging through the central eyelet in the front and then connected to an “erinoid” ring. Would it be possible for some owner to send me some pictures (rear and front) of that construction (the visible part of it : how are the cables (rear) properly fixed to the blind – how are those cable in the front, one or two, how are/is the cable connected to the front ring ?).
Thank you in advance for any information and picture Nuitonie |
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Rear Blind 401
I am also doing a 1954 403 back from an almost total wreck. The rear window was removed when I got the car and the timber around the rear window frame had either dissolved or was not saved. Either way it is one of the longer term problems to solve. While it was away at the having the body work done (18Months) I tried many solutions to this and other problems. One was to laminate steam bent thin strips of timber glued together and bent around the alloy trim panel (held with clamps). After much time this was a dismal failure. After consulting with others my preferred solution is to use suitable sized canvas belting (as used on the rear axle check straps). This will serve to fill the void. For the Head Lining I propose to use West of England Cloth as you cannot get the original or even anything convincingly like it any more any more. This can be glued to the to the Canvas check strapping and any possible marks from the glue will be under the cover strip.
Greg Mead |
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I reread my message and it was a little misleading. The "filler" material instead of wood for the rear window is actually conveyor belt rubber about a half inch thick, self tappered into the frame and a layer of foam is glued in to make a smooth bed for the Headlining material which is then stapled into the Rubber before the alloy painted trim is screwed over the rubber covering it up to the bottom of the rear window glass. A similar approach can be used for the surround for the front window (more wood !!) and the front door pillars.
Sorry to be confusing. Greg Mead |
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Rear Blind 401
Dear Greg,
The replacing of the rear window was not my main interrogation but thank you very much for your advices on the easiest way to replace it on our beloved cars. My intention was to reinstall a wooden fillet but I will seriously consider your idea. I attached to this message a picture of the remaining’s of my fillet (width 0.8 inch/2 cm and thickness ? I suppose 0.3 inch/7 mm – to be tested on the car). Once the job made I will certainly post a little description (with pictures) of the solution that I will finally choose. My 401 is luckily in very original condition but a bit “tired” in some places (water was coming in the boot). I’m trying to maintaining it as original as possible but it has to be usable even in rainy circumstances, so I took the decision to solve this problem. By dismantling the headlining, I found the remaining’s of the wooden fillet, the screws (2 different types) and nails (3 different types). As described in my first message, my main interrogation is the correct way to reinstall the rear blind (connecting of the wire cables). I wish you all the best for your 403 Nuitonie |