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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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Engine enamels made by a firm called PPR include a Chrysler blue I believe and are a first class product. Great glossy finish, spray or brush. I think they are a USA product, but appear to be distributed worldwide. About A$70 for 450-500ml.
Mike O |
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Chrysler Blue is a completely different colour, and obviously blue. Whether you'd call the Chrysler Green/Alpine Green either blue or green seems to be a subjective thing, but robin's egg is what I would call it. It isn't Chrysler Blue though.
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Years 318 poly was used in US
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The 318 is most common and was in fact offered from 1957 through 1966 in the US and 1967 in Canada. They're easy and cheap to find and buy. And except for the pistons and pushrods, the bottom end is the same as later LA wedge-head 318s (1967 and up for US). Upgrades? The 318 A poly engine is strong to start with, including forged cranks and connecting rods. 1957-58 versions came with two four-barrel carbs and 290 hp; those dual-quad manifolds are plentiful on ebay. So are aftermarket aluminum four-barrel manifolds. HOWEVER, you're better off using an original cast-iron 4-barrel manifold, which is dual-plane for better low-end torque. There were even old Edebrock and Weiand triple two-barrel manifolds--a great option--though they're much rarer. |
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Quick corrections
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Many bottom end parts DO interchange
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Now for the Carbs??
So the 340 is out and a beautiful 318 is sitting on the floor next to the car.
Does anyone know what number Carter 4 barrel AFB carburetor is the right one for the motor? Thanks. And to have wheels while the 408 is having an engine transplant, I have just bought a 1972 411. It arrives on the transporter next week! |
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My feelng has always been that it's perfectly okay to make performance/reliability/practicality upgrades, and Bristols are no exception. Based on sheer horsepower per cubic inch, it's hard to beat Mopar's 340. Chrysler's threw everything they had at that engine, which puts out far more than it's rated horsepower (numbers designed to fool the insurance companies!).
That said, it's awfully nice to open the hood and see the engine that's meant to be there. As other commenters have noted, there are loads of 318s around for dirt-cheap. You can keep the stock forged cranks and con rods, or put in the entire bottom end from a 340. Growing interest in this "semi-hemi" V8 also means growing parts and value--another reason to stick with the A-series Poly. While the dual-quad manifold from '57 and '58 Plymouth Furys looks nice, it's essentially a single-plane log manifold that turns the relatively thrifty 318 into a gas guzzler. And as someone mentioned, the most-common Weiand aluminum four-pot manifold is also a single-plane that reduces the low-end grunt these mills are known for. Best option: An original, if heavy, cast-iron dual-plane manifold made from '56 thru '62 (on the US 277, 301, and 303 and Canadian 303/313 versions of this engine) with, say, a modern Edelbrock four-barrel or even a plug-and-play throttle-body EFI setup. And while you can go all the way over 400 CU IN, the best compromise seems to be boring the A engine out to 3.95 inches (like the '59-only 326) and, perhaps, stroking it to roughly 3.58 inches to bring nearly 360 cubic inches. Or simply leave the stock bore and stroke and enjoy a pleasant combination of torque and reasonable fuel economy. |
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Earlier versions used the Carter WCFB four barrel rated at roughly 425 cfm or something along those lines; in '60 or '61, they switched to the AFB. Today, for a relatively stock 318, you'll want the Edelbrock 500 cfm; go 600 cfm for a hot cam and other mods, but remember, it's all too easy to over-carburate!
Remember, too, that earlier manifolds designed for the Carter WCFB had a smaller based made for that smaller carb; you'll need an adapter to fit the later AFB or the essentially similar Edelbrock. Strongly suggest going with a manual choke if you choose the Edelbrock; much, much better control with foolproof operation. |