Iced 411

[JAM]

It's not often you see pictures of an iced Bristol, so I thought you might enjoy A couple of pics from one of the "freak" April snow storms that always surprise us here in Toronto, but happen almost every year.

On that note, does anyone have any experience in getting the heater to generate anything approaching hot air?

Jonathan

[Calibrator]

Very cool car! ;-)

[Kevin H]

Originally Posted by JAM

....does anyone have any experience in getting the heater to generate anything approaching hot air?

Jonathan

Jonathan, the V8 Bristols don't usually have any problems producing heat, but the Smiths heater system does't last forever without a some maintenance/repair.

The likely culprit is the valve which controls hot water supply to the Heater box.

There's a thread about the valve here;
http://www.bristolcars.info/forums/8...ter-valve.html

[mjolner]

I had s5 411 heater was ok .IF THE CORE is ok ,thermost
can stick open -just a gap of 1mm is enough to prevent engine reaching correct full temp=I know Bentley tirbo R had similar prob.New thermostat did the trick

[JAM]

Thank you both for the tips. I'll investigate this weekend.

[Bryn Tirion]

Canadian commiserations. That engine will obviously generate vast amounts of heat. Here would be my approach, with possible symptoms.

1. No hot water getting to heater core. Test by getting the engine up to temperature, open the heater valve (check to see that it opens) and after a few minutes see if both hoses to the heater box are hot. If neither, check the thermostat. If one is hot, and the other cold, pull the infamous Smiths valve off and be ready to flush it though. Honestly the type of valve fitted to vast numbers of US vehicles, like for instance a 1990 Ford F250, will do a better job, but only the Smiths unit looks authentic, although it is pathetic and at best reduces cross-sectional flow area to about 0.25 square inches, no matter how big a hose feeds into it.

2. Hot water in both hoses, but the air blowing into the cockpit remains cold. Usually due to complete loss of the insulation that is supposed to help separate both sides of the heater core, and force air through the matrix. Easily replaced with foam cut from domestic water pipe insulating foam, plus use of a high temperature caulk.

3. Warmish water in inlet and cold water in outlet hose. If your system is corroded (brown rather than nice and green) or has ever been corroded in the dim distant past, it is also possible that your matrix might be clogged and need flushing.

Good luck