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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc

Advice opinions please

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 25-06-21, 12:46 PM
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Andrew,

I didn’t need to replace my cams but after inspecting the cams and tappets, when assembling I poured a small quantity of oil into the cam/tappets prior to inserting the push rods.

You are probably aware that when fixing the timing chain cover the engine sump should be removed to do the job properly. The previous person who had my timing cover off didn’t appear to do it and the result was a slight oil leak.

I didn’t use any special oil after putting everything back together but I did treat the engine gently for a short time before checking the torque on the heads again and then all was back to normal.

When I was dismantling the various bits off my car, the job was made quite difficult, again by the previous mechanic who used steel nuts on the exhaust manifold (a number of studs sheared off in the head during their removal) and a combination of “make do” bolts and studs elsewhere, I decided to replace all the nuts, bolts, studs and washers (washers where necessary/required). Replacement brass nuts are readily available for the exhaust manifold with the correct thread.

I am not sure which part of the country you are in but please feel free to give me a call if you need a quick answer when putting things back together. My details are in the members section.

Brian
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Old 25-06-21, 01:03 PM
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Thanks Brian
I'm at the southern end of the New Forest so too far to pop round (lucky for you!) but I won't hesitate to take you up on your kind offer if needs be.
Andrew
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Old 25-06-21, 01:09 PM
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My understanding is that the flap in the offside exhaust is totally unrelated to the type of choke you have. The choke on the carburettor provides richer fuel to get the engine started. The flap in the exhaust shuts down the offside pipe which means exhaust gasses from that side of the engine have to pass through the inlet manifold and exit via the nearside exhaust, warming the inlet system as they go. As the engine heats up the bimetallic strip opens the offside exhaust and both pipes come into play.

The flap valve should regularly be lubricated with graphite. The easiest way to do this is to use an aerosol of penetrating oil with graphite. A little tricky to find but I have found it on Ebay.
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Old 25-06-21, 02:17 PM
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Are you referring to the Edelbrock carburettor or to the original Carter carburettor fitted to the 410 which had the bimetallic strip in the inlet manifold which indeed operated the choke to enrich the mixture?

The choke on the Edelbrock is electrically operated and does not require the gases to circulate around the inlet manifold to trigger the bimetallic strip. I think these V8’s generate enough heat in a very short time to turn off the electric choke on the Edelbrock.
Yes, prior to the Edelbrock installation the butterfly in the exhaust manifold would be closed and the choke on the carburettor would also be closed for ease of starting; as the gases pass through the inlet manifold they warm up the bimetallic strip and open the choke. Hopefully at the same time the heat control valve on the exhaust manifold opens fully.

I appreciate that warming up a cold engine gently but quickly is more beneficial to the life of the engine but once the engine to up to temperature I wouldn’t want a sticky heat control valve in the exhaust manifold or additional carbon build up behind the plate inside the inlet manifold giving me unnecessary heat issues. My motto is to keep it simple.
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Old 25-06-21, 02:26 PM
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Neither. The bi-metallic strip wound round the end of the butterfly spindle in the valve that shuts off the exhaust.

The type of carburettor really isn't relevant.
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Old 25-06-21, 02:33 PM
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I think you are referring to the bi metallic spring that sits in the inlet manifold and operates the choke on the Carter. This is indeed redundant if you go for the Edelbrock with electric choke or indeed a manual choke as was my choice.

The exhaust butterfly has no connection to this. It is a relatively subtle improvement during warm up so if you are anxious it may stick you are probably better to wire it open or remove it. However I never had any issues when using the car regularly. As long as the spindle is kept lubricated the weight is plenty to keep the valve open.
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Old 25-06-21, 02:41 PM
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A little more thought and I think I see where you are coming from. Sorry if I'm a bit slow. Yes, the exhaust gas going through the inlet manifold would warm up the original auto choke faster but I believe its main purpose is to warm up the whole inlet tract and this will have a similar effect regardless of carburettor type.
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Old 26-06-21, 10:03 AM
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Whilst in limbo, have not been idle. With a lot of stuff out of the way gave engine bay and block a good clean and it came up quite well. Renewed all the bushes on front anti roll bar as they were tired and had a critical look at all the other bushes at the front end - which appear to be new or very recent. Fitted new shocks all round - GAZ adjustables - springs were new last year before I took possession. This was all stuff I'd identified and planned to do over the coming months/years and had already accumulated the bits.
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