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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc |
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electric window stuck 412
On my '87 Beaufighter the driver side electric window has recently stopped working. It's fortunately in the up position. but I do like driving with my arm out the window.
I tested the switch which had live coming to it, but it got quite hot when pressed for the window to operate. I thought it must be a problem with the motor or just jammed up in runners, so set about trying to take off the door card. I've loosened the main part. but there's a padded strip along the top next to the window which doesn't want to budge and is joined to main lower part. I don't want to force anything and was wondering how it is attached to door frame, or do the two parts seperate? Any help appreciated |
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Oliver I have a series 1 412 and have had the door trims off many times. Presuming your later car is the same as mine you simply remove the arm rest and the internal door handle and with a suitable flat bladed tool you work your way from the bottom of the card pulling out the hidden clips as you go. With all the clips released you pull down on the card pulling it away from the trim at the top of the door, a few jiggles and it should slip out.
Hope that helps |
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Thanks for reply,
On mine, the armrest seems attached to door card but has an Allen key bolt fixing door card to frame and door handle I think remains in situ. Anyway I'll give another attempt, maybe just a firm tug downwards will separate the 2 parts. I was being cautious not to mess anything up. |
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I finally got around to removing door card to get at window motor. It just took a firm yank and it came away from top section.
The motor shorts out. When I opened it up it looks and smells very burnt out. I'm not sure if it's repairable - one of the magnets has dropped off the body. Anyway, I'm after a replacement. I was wondering what other cars used the same motor or suggestions of good place to find a reconditioned one. Thanks |
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I've attached a couple of photos of motor - dissembled with loose magnet.
I was thinking maybe your one with numbers so close is passenger side whereas mines driver side.window motor.jpg window2.jpg |
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Perhaps 40 years ago I used a Loctite structural adhesive to fix a detached magnet problem on a DC motor of similar size doing much faster running and more demanding duties.
To my certain knowledge it lasted over five years before the offending object passed out of my ken. As I recall it the windings on that one didn't look terribly healthy. I'm pretty sure that the person requesting the repair understood it was most likely a temporary measure that couldn't be expected to last all that long. As ever "Nowt so permanent as a temporary job." So if totally stuck repair is possible. Clive |
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I managed to get hold of correct window motor. Turns out there same as Series 2 & 3 jag + XJS 'till 1987, also Triumph Stag '70- '73.
I haven't got around to fitting yet - the door frame at bottom needs some sorting out for rust first. Thanks for all your replies, Oliver |
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Hello,
I've finally got around to refitting window motor. It worked fine until I put door card back on. Now I've got no power coming to switches. I think I've blown a fuse. The ends of the wires when pushing about must have touched together or earthed on door. I should have disconnected battery but.... Anyway, I've got a wiring diagram for window lift switches and it shows an in-line fuse. I've been searching the car for any other fuses other than the main 50amp ones in battery compartment (which are all ok), but so far haven't found any. Does someone know if there's a fuse specific to window motors? Thanks |
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Hello,
I found the fuse, which had blown, now window back to working as usual. Someone in the past had the bright idea to spray battery compartment black, covering most of the wiring. this makes it hard to see which wire goes where. |