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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc

408 front subframe / crossmember removal

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Old 14-02-23, 07:05 AM
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Hi David,

I used an angle grinder with a thin disc to grind off the heads. Don’t worry about the sheet metal of the inner fenders a lot, when you have the front crossmember out you will anyway clean and repaint them ..
Regards

Thomas
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Old 14-02-23, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas591 View Post
Hi David,

I used an angle grinder with a thin disc to grind off the heads. Don’t worry about the sheet metal of the inner fenders a lot, when you have the front crossmember out you will anyway clean and repaint them ..
Regards

Thomas
Yes, I may well end up doing similar.

David
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Old 19-02-23, 11:04 PM
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In the end, I did grind off those bolts holding the fender wall to the crossbeam.

The front crossbeam is now completely detached from the chassis and body of the car but is still not removed.

The pic below shows the problem: I can't get the u-joint off the splined end of the steering column. It has to come out as the u-joint is inside the crossbeam and the hole the steering column passes through is too small for the U-joint to go through to take it out of there. I have removed the clamping bolts on both ends of the u-joint and the steering box end slides freely. The steering column end will not shift. Applying leverage just pulls the whole steering column down towards the steering box by about 1/2". I have applied PB Blaster penetrant, I have applied heat (albeit with only a small propane torch) and I have hammered a chisel in there (many, many times) but it won't separate from the column splines.

Any suggestions, please? I am considering just cutting the column to get it out but will have to check what would be entailed in repairing it and what parts may be needed and available.

David
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File Type: jpg 20230219_163458 (Copy).jpg (127.9 KB, 18 views)
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Old 20-02-23, 08:23 PM
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Success!!!!!

I applied the propane torch for 30 minutes today. Then after some levering with a pickle fork, the spines came clear of the u-joint. Thanks for all the advice that got me to this point.

Here's the suspension subframe/crossbeam out of the car!!!!! Once I have dismantled the steering and upper wishbones, it will go to the welder for repair of the rusted out areas.

David
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File Type: jpg 20230220_131308 (Copy).jpg (98.6 KB, 17 views)

Last edited by dwomby; 21-02-23 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 21-02-23, 05:35 AM
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Well done David!
That was quite a job! Must be very satisfying to get the subframe off. In some ways it's fortunate that you are restoring everything because it means get the angle grinder out if need be.

Looking forward to seeing how you tackle the Wishbone Challenge :-)

When you get the wishbones off, in the past I wrote a post about getting to bushes out.

Probably don't need to tell you this, but make sure you clearly mark the wishbones arms so they can be re-assembled exactly where they were orignally.

Kevin

Last edited by Kevin H; 21-02-23 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 21-02-23, 08:35 PM
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Thanks, Kevin. It's going to be a long process getting this repaired and reassembled....................................... ............

David
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Old 02-05-23, 10:21 AM
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The subframe is back from the welder!!!!

The first pic shows the worst of the rusted area after the frame had been in an acid bath. The second shows the same area. The control arms are just being test-fitted.

The plan is eventually to paint this black but I am leaving for Nova Scotia very soon and won't be back until September. So, for now, I will temporarily bolt the subframe back in 'as is' to ensure the main chassis rails don't spread apart under the weight of the engine during the summer. The engine has been supported while the subframe has been out. So it should bolt straight back in but we'll see how it goes!!!!!

David
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File Type: jpg acid2.jpg (62.4 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg Back from welder 2.jpg (68.7 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg Back from welder 1.jpg (85.0 KB, 23 views)

Last edited by dwomby; 02-05-23 at 10:34 AM.
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