411/412/603 wheel nut torque?

[Kevin H]

This isn't about to become the subject of a law suit, but the topic came up (again) yesterday because I finally picked my 411 up from the mechanic who has had it for the last 9+ years.

The mechanic and I have had quite a lot of correspondence lately in which I have criticised numerous events in relation to my car, which in a roundabout way I was saying were down to either his negligence or at the very least a poor decision on his part. Yesterday he went about denying responsibility for every one of these events for one reason or another, in most cases claiming we had conversations that we did not in fact have. One of these issues was the wheel falling off when I went to road test the car earlier this year.

He said he asked me for the torque settings, which he didn't, and went on to say that in the absence of any manufacturers information regarding wheel nut torque I supposedly told him to use the same settings as a Jensen, which apparently is 55 ft/lbs. This is in fact a complete fabrication of the truth because we never had any such conversation.

Originally Posted by RGSchmitt

"Common sense would dictate prudence on the part of both the mechanic and the owner."

In other words, if you would rather not be driving with a wheel
falling off, know the right torque values and watch the wheel being
reinstalled accordingly!

Okay, so what should the torque value be for the wheel nuts?

And in real life how many owners of Bristols, or any other car, (a) know what the torque spec is, and (b) supervise the mechanic doing up the wheel nuts with a torque wrench?

[Kenneth Andrén]

Hi,

I discussed this with Norman at Motor Wheel Services and he suggested 80ft/lbs for my Arnolt.

Best

Kenenth

[Nick Challacombe]

Wow, I am so glad you have got the car back, it has been a long saga
demanding immense patience on your part.
I think I might in my younger days have given him a Rugby kiss on the nose.
Have you now to finish the car?
You could do a TV programme on Rogue Traders.
Kind regards,
nick

[Kevin H]

Originally Posted by Nick Challacombe

Wow, I am so glad you have got the car back, it has been a long saga demanding immense patience on your part.

Thanks Nick. It is nice to have it back and I'm not known for my patience! Unfortunately it still needs work even in the engine bay. My new engine leaks oil! Apparently because the sump pan is buckled. Given the amount of money I have spent on it and the fact that he bought new intake manifold, pistons, cam shaft, valves, distributor (x2), carby/throttle body (x2) and God knows what else from the USA, you would think he would have bought a new sump pan, but no. There are other issues as well, but I digress!

As no one seems to know what torque the V8 wheels nuts should be tightened to, whoever is next speaking to Brian Marelli next can you please ask him.

Maybe that should be whomever ...

[browning l]

Originally Posted by Kevin Howard

Thanks Nick. It is nice to have it back and I'm not known for my patience! Unfortunately it still needs work even in the engine bay. My new engine leaks oil! Apparently because the sump pan is buckled. Given the amount of money I have spent on it and the fact that he bought new intake manifold, pistons, cam shaft, valves, distributor (x2), carby/throttle body (x2) and God knows what else from the USA, you would think he would have bought a new sump pan, but no. There are other issues as well, but I digress!

As no one seems to know what torque the V8 wheels nuts should be tightened to, whoever is next speaking to Brian Marelli next can you please ask him.

Maybe that should be whomever ...

No, "whoever" is correct, as it the subject of the phrase, not the object.

Why don't you call him, or email the plant at lilianbristolcars@tiscli.co.uk,to the attention of Jeff Marsh?

[RGSchmitt]

I recall there are standard values for torquing bolts, based on bolt
grade, size, etc. Such as
http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html And there is a well
known book among racers only on fasteners, by Carroll Smith.

Anything similar for other graded, non-US fasteners?

Bob

[Hydroglen]

I am constantly surprised by this odd question. A wheel should be
tightened by hand, using the hand tools provided and removed the same way.
Assuming average strenght this equates to some 70 / 80 lbs but it is quite
irrelevant.
You are not going to bother with a torque wrench or even have one when
dealing with a flat on the highway!!
Wheels have been tightened by hand around the world for some 80 years, and I
have certainly never come across this issue except on this Forum!
I am also very much involved in racing and many of my fellow racers have to
re and re their wheels by hand. Take it as a fact that the stress and
loading on the track far exceed the requirements or stresses of a Bristol!
I am leaving in a few hours for a car tour of Continental Europe. Based on
past experience, I know that after a suitable breakfast I will be able to do
or undo the wheel nuts on my car and my wheels will not over-take me on the
Stelvio!
Dorien

[Kevin H]

Originally Posted by kenneth

Hi,
I discussed this with Norman at Motor Wheel Services and he suggested 80ft/lbs for my Arnolt.

Best
Kenenth

Thanks Kenneth. I have seen figures of 70-100 ft/lb quoted from Geoff Dowdle, but this is quite a large range. Mine are apparently now 95 ft/lb. Of course I only have the mechanics word on this, which is beginning to prove quite unreliable, so I will check them!