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8 & 10 cyl Bristol cars Type 407 onwards - restoration, repair, maintenance etc

My Bristol

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Old 20-10-11, 09:11 PM
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hey thanks

the videos will take a while due to the fact that i have TONS of school stuff and no time to realy do much else, BUT i will post a link to the videos
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Old 14-11-11, 09:19 PM
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Bristol 407 - YouTube

this is the playlist of me and my friend working on it last month
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Old 14-11-11, 10:03 PM
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Default the old bristol

I about had a heart attack watching you guys sitting on the aluminum body. Not all that strong and you could be doing amazing damage. You should have pulled the wheels and freed up the drums so it would roll, instead of pulling it like that. Anyway, good luck on your project. ron
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Old 14-11-11, 10:29 PM
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see all 12 videos
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Old 14-11-11, 11:49 PM
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Default the old bristol

I looked at the videos, and you are scaring me. I wish that car was a Camaro of something. That way I would not be so concerned. Anyway, good luck on the project. This is perhaps the most valuable project you will ever have the opportunity to work on, and I hope you will give it the respect it deserves.
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Old 15-11-11, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald G. Stephenson View Post
I looked at the videos, and you are scaring me. I wish that car was a Camaro of something. That way I would not be so concerned. Anyway, good luck on the project. This is perhaps the most valuable project you will ever have the opportunity to work on, and I hope you will give it the respect it deserves.
i understand. for the state it is in there is no need to worry to that extent. once we do body work then we will have to be more careful
thanks
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Old 15-11-11, 04:01 PM
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I agree with Ron for once ! You are scaring me too ...

It is a 408 , not 407 -- the 407 numbers you see around are just part numbers that are shared with a lot of V8 Bristols

Please get a professional mechanic to take a look and write you up a job list that you can tackle one at a time.

Don't use the body work as a work bench and tool tray -- you will loose tools and cause more damage.

The button on the floor you asked about is for the main beam headlight on/off

Just keep asking on here when you are stuck or need parts on and someone will help

Did you actually get it running ? Please check all fluids are okay before you try again and make sure it isn't seized. Do you need help with that ?

Good luck and remember one job at a time, keep taking pictures and don't loose anything. I started with lawn mowers and mopeds ! you are very brave and fearless :-)

Last edited by GREG; 15-11-11 at 04:08 PM. Reason: lllllll
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Old 15-11-11, 05:25 PM
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The A/C compressor you were looking at is the brake servo - it doesn't have A/C

The power steering pump that was in your way was something else as they don't have power steering and use a Marles steering box


It has the wrong carb on so look out for a 4 barrel Edelbrock

I think you may be better getting a cheap running 318 engine from a breakers yard somewhere, around 1963 vintage, so you can get it rolling -- if the tranny is working. Then you can work on the original engine and components at your leisure.

Really don't want to be patronising but please, please, get some help !

Watching you hitting the gear selector with a lump hammer nearly made me cry :-(

Here are normal pre start checks after a car has been stood - but these are based on a radiator being fitted and a fuel supply -- which yours has not !! So stop and get help

1 Check for any obvious damage to hoses.
2 Fully charge the battery.
3 Take out the sparking plugs.
4 Disable ignition circuit (pull out the funny shaped plug on the ignition amplifier situated above the fuses in the offside pannier)
5 Remove air cleaner.
6 Squirt a little thin oil into each plug hole, and into the top of the carb; push open the choke plate and throttle butterflies as you do this.
7 Even if oil looks clean (perhaps especially if), change it before turning over the engine. Deposits and crud may have totally settled (like sediment in wine) and may clog oil passages when stirred up.
8 Turn the engine over a couple of times using a socket on the nut holding the crankshaft pulley at the front of the engine. Make sure that the engine turns reasonably freely.
9 Have an assistant sit in the car while you keep an eye on the engine. 10 Have him turn the key to the start position. The engine should spin over. 11 Carefully watch for any petrol leaks as the mechanical pump (I assume you have one) fills the float chambers. Sometimes after very long periods of inactivity, the floats can be stuck by gummy deposits in old petrol. If all is well, continue to spin the engine on the starter until you see the oil pressure come up.
Replace plugs, air cleaner and enable ignition circuit.
Go for a pint ( Cola ), (this is serious, it gives the electric choke time to cool down)
Try it, if all is well you will get a cloud of smoke from the exhaust as the excess oil is burnt off.
Let it warm up, checking all the time for fluid leaks.
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Old 15-12-11, 11:05 PM
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As far as I can see from reading this thread, while there may not be a lot of finance, practical skill or even rational thought floating around, this lad has an abundance of the most important thing - ENTHUSIASM.
It's surprising how many hurdles can be overcome with this alone - other things can come later!

Good luck to you.
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