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Rev counter repair and Clock ideas
My rev counter has ceased to function, I stupidly thought that it was cable driven but it is electronic. Has anybody had one repaired? If so could you point me in the right direction.?
I have had my clock repaired twice in the last 26 years and it again is only correct twice a day. Has anyone ever managed to replace their clock with a more reliable one? Thank you. |
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My rev counter over reads by at least 1,000rpm at cruising speed, and my clock like yours has been repaired and remains accurate twice a day.
I have seen this site: https://www.clocks4classics.com which claims to offer electronic conversions for the clock and rev counter. The fitting instructions for the clock kit are 20 pages and involve the total dis- and reassembly of the clock mechanism. (They do offer a fitting service.) I have no experience of them myself so cannot vouch for its efficacy. I have considered doing battle with my clock, but after twenty years I'm quite used to it always being ten to two when I'm in the Bristol. |
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I updated my tacho by replacing the 1960s electronics with a new circuit board made by a company called Spiyda trading on Ebay amongst other outlets. Cost of board about £45. Time to fit about an hour once the unit was out of the car added to about another hour running in a new wire from the coil negative to the tacho.
Instructions are pretty good with helpful videos on YouTube. A major advantage of fitting the new board is that the unit can fairly readily be calibrated during fitment. This is fairly straightforward but requires a mobile phone or laptop with a high level audio output. I struggled a bit as my laptop wouldn't produce enough level. Nice to have accurate measurement and smoother needle movement. I have a Kienzle clock on my 410 which is very good. Working second hand units can be found on Ebay for less than repair cost of a Smiths. I had clocks on my 401 and 403 repaired by Speedograph Richfield with electronic impulse units but they didn't last very long. |